by Jon Edwards

Régleur Extraordinaire

Tania Edwards, writing for Collectibility, delves into the provenance of Zibach's work, including his invention of the Patek Philippe Gyromax balance wheel.

Referred to affectionately at Patek Philippe as “les anciens”, adjusters were superstars and reportedly received about three times the pay of other watchmakers. They made their own hours, worked their own way, had their own individual methodology and did whatever was needed to win the coveted Observatory ratings.

The value encapsulated in that second sentence should not be underestimated. The freedom to work in that manner was undoubtedly integral to Zibach's successes, undergirding his ability to make creative connections and technical leaps others lacked the clarity to see.

Image credit Patek Philippe SA

Independent Watchmaking in China

An overview of five notable Chinese watchmakers: Qian Guobiao, Tan Ze Hua, Lin Yong Hua, Rao Kuan, & Neo Kung.

Image via Independent Watcher

The Watchmaker & the Guillocher

Pierre Maillard, reporting for Europa Star, on Kari Voutilainen and Georges Brodbeck's efforts to perpetuate the art of guillochage:

Since the end of the 1950s, no hand-operated rose-engine lathes have been built and there are no schools that teach the art. As a result, master engine-turners or guillocheurs have become an endangered species.

Kari Voutilainen has played a significant role in the revival of guillochage. The modesty of his output–60 to 70 watches per year–is inversely proportional to the influence that his timepieces have had and continue to have on the industry.

Brodbeck's tools and talent could not have found a better home.

The Alternative Horological Alliance

Three brands, one bracelet.

The first project from the Alternative Horological Alliance—a partnership between Ming, J.N. Shapiro, and Fleming—leverages the skills and resources of all three brands to achieve outcomes unlikely to have arisen on their own. The first is a tantalum bracelet, designed by Ming Thein and produce in the workshops of Joshua Shapiro, that can be fit to watches from all three brands.

Image credit Alternative Horological Alliance

Nichrome

Patented by Albert Marsh in 1906, nichrome is the oldest documented form of resistance heating alloy. Commonly used today for heating elements in toasters, electric kettles, and space heaters.

Talking Watches With Yoshihide Isogai

In a laid-back chat with Hodinkee's Kyosuke Sato, Yoshihide Isogai discusses early Patek wristwatches, the craftsmanship that drew him to independent watchmakers, and Shellman's thoughtful foray into quartz watches fit for the Musée international d'horlogerie in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

A Visit With David Candaux

There are watchmakers, and then there are watchmakers.

Logan Baker, reporting for Phillips Auctioneers, pays a visit to the atelier of David Candaux.

With regards to Candaux's choice of titanium for the bridges of his timepieces, Baker writes:

For Candaux, titanium is the ideal material for modern watchmaking because, unlike nickel silver, which was once considered innovative due to its non-magnetic and stainless properties, it is also highly resistant, biocompatible, and a natural material, ensuring exceptional longevity for each timepiece.

Image via Phillips Auctioneers, LLC

“All” the Parts of a Watch Explained

The title of this piece from Time & Tide is unequivocal hyperbole. A watch is composed of so much more than what’s listed here. An order of magnitude more.

Chanel Acquires 25% Stake in MB&F

A Noteworthy, Vintage Piaget Collection

Allen Farmelo, reporting for Robb Report, shares a peek into the wide-ranging selection of stone-dialed Piaget timepieces collected by Gai Gohari.

Image credit Allen Farmelo

Spirals of Light

Ming’s 20.01 Series 3 serves up a unique and decidedly anti-utilitarian take on the Agenhor Agengraphe.

Groh + Ripp

Specialists in the manufacturing of stone dials for the watchmaking industry.

Image credit Groh + Ripp OHG

A Legend Revived

Kari Voutilainen, Aurel Bacs, et al on the collaboration between Zenith, Phillips, & Voutilainen that breathed new life into a series of ten Zenith 135-O competition chronometer movements.

European Clocks & Watches

Full text of the book, detailing The Met's collection of European timepieces, by Clare Vincent, Jan Hendrik Leopold, and Elizabeth Sullivan, courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

3D-printed Omega Clock

A 3D-printable model of a modern Omega Seamaster 300 wall clock, created by Grant G.

Image credit Grant G.

Mazur Instruments

Makers of Geiger counters. Handy for identifying watches containing radium and tracking radiation exposure.

Control & Greed

Arial Adams, of A Blog to Watch, shares some salient thoughts on parts restrictions and the adverse impacts that have occurred as a result:

Often, such decisions were made by brand managers who knew they would no longer be in the role when the crisis would become apparent. With this in mind, they made decisions that made them look good in the short term, only to create long-term problems they didn’t care too much about.

While I don't foresee any grand changes to restrictive parts practices coming imminently, increasingly negative consumer sentiment toward the most egregious brands may eventually turn the tide. Hopefully brand managers don't choose to wait until they've drowned out the last remaining independent watchmakers.

Tang & Clevis

A detailed analysis of the structural behaviour of tang-and-clevis joints from NASA, for the purpose of hermetically sealing the meeting of two components.

Image credit NASA