Typewell
A new typeface designed by Colophon, alongside Lego's in-house agency and Interbrand.
Inspired by type specimens from the Lego archives, what sets Typewell apart is its adherence to the Lego System, which governs and ensures the interoperability of Lego components across thousands of sets spanning decades of production.
The name Typewell itself is also inspired directly by Lego. The Lego brand name having been derived from the concatenated abbreviation of the Danish equivalents of the words "play well".
One of Twelve
Produced in 1942, this Rolex split-seconds chronograph (reference 4113) is believed to be one of only 12 such models ever produced.
Owned by Auro Montanari, who operates under the pen name, John Goldberger, this particular example was made famous thanks to its appearance on the cover of his book, 100 Superlative Rolex Watches, as well as being the watch he casually opened with a cheese knife during a 2013 episode of Talking Watches with Ben Clymer.
Arceau Duc Attelé
Hermès' Arceau Duc Attelé serves up an impressive level of physical and aural depth, from the dial right through to the sapphire bridge for the strikework on the rear of the timepiece. The sapphire bridge itself serving both to enhance the sound of the minute repeater while also providing an unhindered view of the repeating works in action.
The choice to fashion the hammers for the gongs in an equestrian theme is a fitting, subtle, and particularly delightful touch. While Patek Philippe's Advanced Research division gave a nod to the tuning fork with the amplifier they devised for the Fortissimo, the Arceau Duc Attelé also marks the first time I can recall the use of tuning forks to serve as gongs.
Berkley Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin outdoes its prior record-setting timepiece taking the crown, once again, for the world's most complicated mechanical watch with the debut of The Berkley Grand Complication, a massive, one-of-a-kind pocketwatch crafted for William R. Berkley.
Based on the same ebauche as Vacheron Constantin reference 57260, which previously held the world record, The Berkley boasts 63 complications constructed from 2,877 individual components. Of note among the complications, The Berkley features the world's first Chinese perpetual calendar and can strike the time in passing or on demand—in full Westminster grandeur—across five gongs.
A Moniker Rolex Hasn't Used in Over Half a Century
Ben Clymer, at Hodinkee, reviews the Rolex Le Mans chronograph, released to commemorate 100 of years of Le Mans in 2023.
Bringing to the table a 1964 issue of Sebring magazine from his personal collection, he holds up tangible evidence of the provenance of the brand's use of the Le Mans name, which was quickly eclipsed by the 24 Hours of Daytona races in the latter half of the 1960s.
Clock Tower Condo
For those who've ever fancied living in a clock tower, The Clocktower Penthouse in San Francisco's burgeoning SoMa neighbourhood has it all.
Located at the historic Clock Tower Lofts Building, at 461 2nd Street, the building was erected in 1907 and served as the headquarters of the original Max Schmidt Lithography Co.
Dual Ulysse Escapement
David Ichim and JX Su break down the function, drawbacks, benefits, and precision of Ulysse Nardin's silicon Dual Ulysse Escapement used in the second generation of The Freak.
Swiss levers usually function with a larger, but bearable, 52° lift angle, although the tendency in recent years is to go for a reduced 49°. In comparison the total escaping angle (another term for lift angle) is low as 36° in dead-beat, detent escapements.
Morning on the Beach
A modern take on the age-old craft of marquetry in a new Patek Philippe Calatrava (reference 5089G-129) aimed squarely at the surf-loving elites of Silicon Valley.
The marquetry work on this showcase piece is excellent, as one would expect from the artisans at Patek Philippe, and the qualities inherent in wood grain guarantee that no two watches in this limited run of ten pieces will be exactly the same.
Renaud Tixier
A new, independent watch brand forged of a partnership between 31-year-old watchmaker, Julien Tixier, and 65-year-old, industry veteran, Dominique Renaud, who founded the complications specialist Renaud & Papi alongside Giulio Papi in 1986. Renaud's first namesake marque, Renaud & Papi, is more commonly abbreviated APRP today—the AP referring to Audemars Piguet, who own a majority stake in the firm.
For his follow-up act, Ranaud is set to unveil 7 innovations on centuries-old watchmaking techniques. The first of those innovations is a bit of a stretch in that regard, however. A novel, platinum, dancer flywheel mechanism in Renaud Tixier's debut timepiece, designed to lend the micro-rotor greater winding efficiency, is a stepwise improvement on a decades-old technique. The very concept of a micro-rotor having first been submitted to a patent office 70 years prior, in 1954, by Universal Genève. Irrespective of their marketing team's distortion of reality, it is an interesting technical achievement.
By all accounts, each new innovation that Renaud Tixier has in the pipeline will be housed in a watch named after each day of the week. While Monday's offering is not to my personal taste, I am curious to see what's in store for Tuesday.
100th Anniversary Citizen Pocket Watch
Housing an all-new caliber, cased in titanium, with dual sapphire crystals, and guised under a pleasantly modern, vintage-inspired dial with a rice paper aesthetic that belies its metal composition, Citizen has hit a striking balance with this milestone timepiece.
A layer of relatively thick, cellulose varnish applied over the dial's texture prior to pad printing the indices, Breguet numerals, and Citizen wordmark lends the face of the watch an added sense of depth and a subtle, additional touch of modernity.
With the exception of the undersized ratchet wheel and eccentric force of the hairspring, everything about the new caliber 0270 sings. I applaud Citizen's continued use the free-sprung balance wheel that they first debuted in the caliber 0200.
Hand-powered Lathe
The tool used by Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, of Oscillon, to shape the pivots of the wheels in their timepieces into their final form.
A two-handed operation that is akin to rubbing your belly and tapping the top of your head at the same time, it takes a good deal of patience, practice, and hard-won skill to master this machine at the level of precision needed to craft watch parts.