Philippe Delhotal on Durability & Sustainability
In an interview with Amandine, for Watch Passport, creative director of Hermès’ watch division, Philippe Delhotal:
This means that the object is made to last for years, decades, from generation to generation. In the end, the bag or watch you might inherit from your mother or grandmother will last for years. You’ll be able to have it repaired, and you’ll always have it with you. That’s the durability of the object.
The Opulent Optimizations of the Chronomètre Optimum
David Ichim, writing for Watches by SJX, takes a deep look at the remontoire system and novel escapement in F.P. Journe's Chronomètre Optimum.
Distilled from Mr Journe’s vision of a perfect chronometer, the watch certainly is meant to be a purist’s timepiece, albeit not a perfect one. The movement performance is perhaps hampered by its own over-engineering and reveals Mr Journe’s predilection for complexity, particularly in the EBHP [high-performance, bi-axial escapement].
Of note, the dual escape wheels and lever in the Chronomètre Optimum are crafted out of titanium, resulting in a lower moment of inertia and less energy draw from the remontoire system.
One aspect of the article I would push back against, unrelated to the Chronomètre Optimum apart from the fact it stands in contrast to the point, is Ichim's sweeping under the rug of Journe's lack of an overcoil in other timepieces in the brand's offerings.
Irrespective of the size of the balance wheel, a hairspring that does not breathe concentrically will have an adverse effect on isochronism. While it is possible to achieve concentricity in a flat hairspring by varying the spring's geometry, as with the Syloxi hairspring from Rolex or the Spiromax from Patek Philippe (both made from silicon), this is not the case when it comes to Journe's flat, wire hairsprings. Coincidentally, Journe has previously dabbled in the production of flat hairsprings that breathe concentrically in partnership with U.S.-based Firehouse Horology and validated the spring's efficacy in a prototype Chronometre Bleu. Unfortunately, in the wake of the global pandemic, Firehouse Horology has ceased operations.
Deceptive Layers
Due to the inherent nature of how TPT composites are made, which Richard Mille employs adeptly in the fabrication of its cases, in profile the layers resemble the build lines that are equally inherent in the output of additive manufacturing processes, like 3D printing.
Louis Vuitton × Rexhep Rexhepi
Reviving the spirit of Harry Winston's Opus series of collaborations from the turn of the millennium, which were initially spearheaded by Maximillian Büsser, Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton has unveiled the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie in partnership with Rexhep Rexhepi's Akrivia. This chiming chronograph with 5-minute tourbillon represents the first of five collaborations that Jean Arnault intends to embark on with Louis Vuitton and other independent watchmakers over the coming years.
Of note, according to Jean Arnault, this collaboration marks the first time in its nearly 170 year history that Louis Vuitton has integrated its logomark into the logotype of another brand. Meanwhile, Rexhepi has stated that this particular piece will be the last to be branded with the Akrivia trademark. All future timepieces will follow the lead of his Chronomètre Contemporain in bearing his name instead.
A Visit to F.P. Journe's Trinity of Manufacturing Facilities
Brandon Moore, writing for Watches by SJX:
Arguably both the largest founder-led artisanal brand and the smallest industrial brand, F.P. Journe occupies a market niche all its own, making watches like no other.
Interesting to note that in addition to the new dials that Journe's Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG) produces for itself and others, BDG also provides restoration services for a number of storied brands.
Bacchus & Venus
I've long admired miniature enamel painting—even before I trained to become a watchmaker. One thing I did not anticipate appreciating about them until after working on a few, though, is how much easier these small masterworks make it to spot pieces I've worked on at auction and how much more strongly my mind associates with them than their plainer counterparts. This is the second time this unique piece that was painted by Hélène May-Mercier for Patek Philippe has hit the auction block since it first crossed my bench a little over a decade ago.
anOrdain Model 3 Method
Replicating the texture carved into a block of ash wood onto a sheet of enamel-coated silver, the dial of the Model 3 Method serves up an interesting play of texture and light.
My brother is a fine carpenter and has integrated this texture into the handles of cooking utensils and other items I have the pleasure of using around my house on a daily basis. On the one hand, I have a deep appreciation for the craft that inspired this new release from anOrdain. On the other, I am disappointed they opted to use laser ablation as the penultimate step toward achieving the same texture in silver.
One-of-one Patek Philippe With a Diamond Crystal
An unequivocal piece unique, the Patek Philippe reference 3843 was commissioned in 1990 and completed in 1994. The lasque diamond that protects the blue, sunburst dial of the timepiece is thought to be the third largest of its kind in the world.
Over the long arc of history, I firmly believe we are on the cusp of seeing synthetic diamond crystals supplant the synthetic sapphire crystals that have become par for the course in high-end watchmaking. Nevertheless, a unique and storied timepiece like this, with the subtle inclusions of its natural, cleaved diamond will retain a steadfast charm and rarity.
PowerMEMS
Created by the Besançon-based company, SilMach, PowerMEMS are high-resolution, electrostatic motors etched from silicon wafers. Compact, non-magnetic, low-energy, extremely light, and mass produceable to within incredibly tight tolerances, PowerMEMS appear to be an ideal candidate as a successor to the Lavet-type stepping motors traditionally used in battery-operated, analog wristwatches.
A New Watch Conglomerate on the Horizon?
Breitling CEO, Georges Kern, hints at the possibility of acquiring other brands to help revive their prospects in the same way he has done with Breitling.
No stranger to watch conglomerates, Georges Kern came over to head Breitling from The Richemont Group in 2017, where he successfully helped to integrate A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and IWC under the Richemont umbrella following their acquisitions. Breitling has been majority owned by CVC Capital since 2017.
Francéclat
Formerly two distinct entities, CPDH and Cetehor, Francéclat is the modern trade body that oversees and promotes the economic development of the jewellery, tableware, and timepiece trades in France.
Serge Maillard, writing for Europa Star, delves into the group's history and ambitions for the future of French watchmaking.