Making the 3D, Marble Moon Phase Display for Arnold & Son's Luna Magna
A Nivarox Branded Observatory Competition Peseux 260 From the 1950s
Today Nivarox operates largely behind the scenes, supplying the beating heart inside the vast majority of spring-powered Swiss timepieces, from Swatch to Patek Philippe. The low escape wheel in this caliber allowed for a larger balance wheel & thus better rate stability. Kari Voutilainen later employed the Peseux 260 in his series of Observatoire timepieces, which were awarded certificates of chronometry from Besançon Observatory.
40Hz Silicon Oscillator
While I have a deep appreciation for bi-stable mechanisms & admire the pioneering work Flexous has achieved with this new oscillator & escapement for Frederique Constant, I think it's a mistake to show it off through an aperture in the dial.
There is something humane & almost soothing about watching a mechanical timepiece tick away at rate of five to eight times per second. Witnessing the oscillator vibrating a literal order of magnitude more than that every time you look at your wrist is going to feel downright unnerving.
Inside Egypt's Century-old Watchmaker
"Time seems to have stood still at Papazian's"
This poor 3135 has certainly seen better days. Several incorrect screws & the wrong ratchet wheel. Based on other wear marks, I'd hazard a number of pivots are worn, the axle for the oscillating weight is shot, & it's no longer holding power very well.
"In My Opinion, the Pandemic Has Not Brought About Major Changes in the Way Independents Do Business."
Jared Silver, president of Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, a major retailer for independent watch brands including HYT, Urwerk, MB&F, & Ressence, on the pandemic & future potential for independent artisans.
Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade
The last in the line of trollish, Apple Watchesque timepieces from H. Moser & Cie. Clever implementation of the seconds indication, I'll give them credit for that. Given a previous version included a minute repeater, though, I'd argue this should have been dubbed the Final Update & not the Final Upgrade.
A Visit to Vacheron Constantin
As well as fellow Richemont-owned dial manufacturer, Stern Creations.
"While the notion of doing everything in-house is sedulously promoted by many companies, the reality, as usual, is more complex. Historically, watchmaking has never been something done exclusively “in-house” and virtually all watchmaking companies at every level, throughout their history, acquired at least some components from specialist suppliers — especially cases, dials and bracelets, and many great names made and still make extensive use of third-party movements as well. The myth that vertical integration in and of itself guarantees some extraordinary quality or exclusivity is well worth dispelling, although it remains true that as a symbol of legitimacy as well as a very real point of distinction, it can be an often compelling characteristic of the watchmaking houses that embrace it." – Jack Forster
Young French Watchmaker, Rémy Cools on His Watchmaking Journey
"I think it’s good to have a critical eye on your work. In watchmaking, or in every job, you always have to grow & develop. To stay the same is not good. You always have to keep improving the finishing & when you look back you can see the progress you have made from your first creation to where you are now." – Rémy Cools
How Sharpie Markers Improve Metal Cutting Performance
Ductile metals pose machining challenges, applying a thin layer of long-chain organic media—like Sharpie, Dykem fluid, or stearic acid (the primary active ingredient in epilame)—it introduces a tensile surface stress that improves cutting performance by forcing micro-fractures in the swarf.
350-year-old Watch Nested in Solid Emerald
Set in a single Columbian emerald, this watch was excavated in the Cheapside Hoard—the largest collection of Elizabethan & early Stuart jewellery on record. Given emerald's proclivity to fracture, the fact that this piece has persisted in such excellent condition for this many centuries is remarkable.